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Simon’s sizing advice: Summer
- Permanent style
The winter version we did of this article – published back in November – was popular and has proved useful in conversations with readers since. So here’s the summer equivalent: between the two of them all PS products should be covered, and the two will be combined on the shop website later too.
The idea is to answer the main questions readers have about sizing – particularly because we end up answering the same questions repeatedly during the pop-up shops. The advice is based off what I wear, but also scaled up and down based on what we see on readers.
For reference, I am six foot (183cm) tall, with a 39-inch (99cm) chest and am relatively slim (34 inch/86cm waist).
Finest knitwear: Dartmoor, Finest Crewneck, Finest Polo
Size I take: Medium
We currently have three products made from superfine merino. The collared long-sleeve knit is called the ‘Dartmoor’ after an old Smedley collaboration. The crewneck is just called the Finest Crewneck and the polo shirt is called the Finest Polo. They’re referred to as the ‘finest’ because they use the finest merino and finest make anywhere.
All three used to be quite slim, but we relaxed them two years ago, adding 2cm in the waist. I’d now describe it as a classic, comfortable fit. But it’s not large – I’m slimmer than most for my chest size, and the body is perfect on me.
All three have the same body fit and I am a solid medium – I wouldn’t want to size up or down. The Dartmoor has the advantage of a double cuff, which means it can be adjusted slightly for longer or shorter arms. That’s the Finest Polo above, in cream, worn with a silk Pirozzi jacket.
Size I take: Medium
The hand-framed cotton sweaters we make with Speciale fit similarly to our other knitwear (summarised in the winter version of this article) but they grow a little, as cotton tends to do. For this reason I wear a medium, rather than the large I now usually wear in the cashmere crewneck.
If in doubt – only if between sizes or unsure – I would advise readers to size down for that reason. Note also that the neck is deliberately small, as we like a high collar. This will feel tight when first tried on, but will relax a little as needed – and there’s nothing worse than a sloppy cotton collar.
Size I take: Medium and Large
The Linen Overshirt is the most popular thing we do for summer, it’s a comfortable fit and I’m a solid medium. However, it’s important to note that there is some shrinkage with the linen if machine washed. So if you like the fit as it is, best to dry clean when needed. (I rarely do.)
The Suede Overshirt made by Rifugio in Naples is made to the same specifications and size as the linen. Like the shirts, we do this even when there are different manufacturers, to keep sizing easier. However, if you wear the suede overshirt over knitwear at all, I would recommend sizing up. I do this more these days and so would take a large in that going forward.
Size I take: Medium
The Linen Harrington jacket is a blouson – it’s designed to fit close in the waist, so there’s lots of flattering size and freedom of movement in the chest. When you try to zip it up it should be tight – you should need to pull on the elastic to get it to fasten. Then it should ride up onto your hips, and stay there. Let the top ‘blouse’ out.
I’m a solid medium again. (It’s worth repeating, as some variation is coming soon.)
T-shirts: Heavy tapered tee and Undershirt
Size I take: Large and Medium
The Japanese T-shirts we do are ‘tapered’ only in the sense that all regular T-shirts are tapered (the hips are a little narrower than the chest) but most Japanese circular knitted tees are not. We wanted the quality of the latter but the fit of the former, so you get the heavy quality but a regular fit.
I could wear a medium or a large in those, and in the launch post I showed the difference between the two. I wear a large (above) more often, as I like that roomier fit in a T-shirt more, and that’s what I’d recommend to people generally. But a medium is fine too, just a closer fit.
In the undershirts I am a medium, but note that these deliberately fit a little snug (as they’re meant to be mostly an undershirt) and then give a little when needed, making them super-comfortable. They are also deliberately long, so they stay tucked in.
Size I take: Large (50)
I find it interesting that the PS Shorts are the piece that has changed most in style over the years, particularly in regards to the length. My style has changed a little too, in that I prefer a slightly looser fit and wider leg now, and so would wear a 50 (large) rather than 48 (medium, above).
However, as readers will be bored of hearing by now, I have quite a large bum compared to my waist size, so I always have to compromise on one or the other. In the past I would have put up with a closer fit on the seat. Today I get the right fit there and take in the waist if I need to.
(It’s also not possible to let out the waist on garment-washed clothes, as it leaves a mark.)
Images: Taken from articles on the clothes mentioned, except those of the tobacco-suede overshirt (above) and the cream Finest Polo (below). Any questions on them, please let me know.
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